OBLIVIOUS to the Saturday evening clatter in his kitchen, Jörg Sackmann furrows his brow in concentration. “Foam!” he commands, teasing strands of onion into a loop and spooning a warm egg yolk into the centre. A young saucier pours a pan of bubbles around the edge of this “onion carbonara”. Peering intensely through half-moon glasses, Mr Sackmann sprinkles on black pepper: “not too much and not too little”.
In 2014 such dishes won Mr Sackmann his second star in the Michelin Guide, the gastronome’s bible. Along with two three-star restaurants at the neighbouring hotels Bareiss and Traube Tonbach, this took his south-west German village of Baiersbronn to a total of eight stars. London has about one star for every 100,000 people; Paris one for every 16,000. This quiet corner of the Black Forest has one for every 2,000.
The secret is balance. Baiersbronn is just provincial enough. Poor soil and...Continue reading
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